Welcome back to our tour around the world along the Autumn/Winter 2013 Fashion Week! This week we’re looking to the runways of Milan for inspiration. Overall, I felt its collections were slightly underwhelming compared to New York and London, and I’m very excitedly looking forward to Paris next week where we’ll get to see Alexander Wang’s Balenciaga debut! But for now, let’s take a look at the top eight collections that I found most inspiring in Milan this season.
Always one to push the boundaries of fashion, Dsquared² had one of my favourite collections this Fall season to date. Dan and Dean Caten brought androgynous chic back in style with top hats, waistcoats and well-tailored suits. Everything was over the top but in just the right way. Not much can be said about the evening wear, but the suits hit all the right notes for us!
With a collection designed with the younger generation in mind (I have yet to be convinced that someone over 35 can pull off that fabulous sequin sweater), Alessandro Dell’Acqua built his Fall collection with British and Italian elements. A mixture of grunge with vintage inspirations, Dell’Acqua pairs the feminine with masculine – loose-fit pants in a shade of blush, tailored pants with a floral sweater, and a collared shirt under a sequin sweater.
Riding on the suits trend that seems to be prevalent this season, Blumarine has once again done a top notch job at encapsulating practical wear that won’t make you look like a clown off the runway. Anna Molinari brought pastels back in fashion along with structured blazers and clean lines. A personal favourite is the flouncy skirt paired with a frilly blouse for a great girly corporate look!
Antonio Marras draws on vintage fashion for inspiration this Fall. Complete with its trademark floral prints, Marras’ Fall collection featured looser cut fits and longer hems, but plunging cleavage revealing necklines. Whimsical and romantic all at the same time, I particularly admire the eveningwear pieces for something that’s formal enough for night events, but playful enough to not be too boring as well.
At first glance, Massimiliano Giornetti’s runway could appear boring, but if you took a closer look, one has to appreciate the thought and details that have gone behind his simple pieces. In shades of black and navy, the cut and fit of these pieces were impeccable. My personal favourite was the navy trench coat – look how perfect it drapes on the model’s frame! Skirt hemlines were just the right length without being too dowdy, and the silk navy shift dress is a practical piece for both day and night.
Dolce & Gabbana
It must have been a sheer coincidence and Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s Fall collection started with outfits featuring the golden Byzantine and Venetian mosaics of Sicily’s Cathedral de Monreale, shown just a few days from Pope Benefict XVI’s iconic resignation. In a collection consisting of a staggering 76 different looks, the progression from the fantasy world back to the streets has to be applauded. We saw more suits in this collection as well, with hot shorts and jacket pairings that would be great as separates!
It’s always refreshing to see a designer show restraint, and the Scognamiglio show featured simplicity at its best. With androgynous cuts and lots of vertical lines, one cannot argue that Scognamiglio knows how to cut a pair of pants – his tailoring is impeccable. I have to say I love the ruffled blouse and criss-cross perspex heels as well!
No Milan Fashion Week round-up is complete without a mention of Prada, who calls this fashion capital of the world home. Prada’s collection was delightfully quirky this season, featuring bursts of colour, leather and tweed. With a collection that has been widely applauded by critics, Miuccia Prada has shown again why Prada is a brand here to stay – her designs were spot on, colours were fantastic and the progression of the show left you wanting more.