Upcoming: Yumumu
By: Yu Shan
Picture credits: Yumumu
With her website just launched a few weeks ago, Singaporean multi-talent Yumumu's debut collections are dedicated to the flatnesss of paperdolls and traditional twists. Radiating a firm presence that every design detail must be backed with reason, the brand's name is no exception.
Yu,mu,mu means "Rain, Wood, Wood" in Mandarin; and those three Chinese radicals come together to form the 'Lin' character in designer Yilin's name.
Tongue in Chic interviews the busy artist on her new baby brand and her background.
Please tell us a little bit about your background.
Art has always been a major part of my education. I was on a special Art Elective programme in Singapore throughout high school and pre-college, and I graduated from Slade School of Fine Art, University College London a few years ago. I painted a lot in high school and at college, I tried to stay away from that and worked mostly with video installations at school (absolutely nothing to do with fashion). So fashion is almost something completely new to me.
I'm currently a full-time fine art teacher. I think my interest in fashion really started in my first year at college. Just walking around and seeing people on the streets of London carry off all sorts of crazy stuff so tastefully. And that there's all that amazingly constructed pieces in places you least expect as well. There's a serious DIY culture in the art world there and that's so important.
You hardly get that here in Singapore. I used to look at loads of magazines just before I slept because they have a way of clearing my mind for a smoother sleep. I suppose much of my instinct for fashion grew out of that. I think my background in Fine Art really pushed me to think about things conceptually. I simply can't make things that are just pretty. They have to be pretty for a reason somehow. Till now, I'm not sure if that's a curse or a blessing. I try to let my eyes do most of the thinking now.
PaperDoll Collection
Any past design projects or collaborations?
Not yet. Yumumu was launched via the website last week. I'm looking forward to collaborations in the future definitely. Someone approached me to design a line of clothes for young Muslim ladies. I thought that was a great idea because they don't get much of a variety in Singapore. But everything's still very much tentative for now.
How would you describe your own design style?
Quirky but wearable? I use my own body to hang my clothes when I design only because it's convenient. I'm quite skinny (I'm the model for EAM) but I don't think that means I only design for skinny people. I'm not for the idea that clothes only look good on a specific body type. I'd love to put on some weight. I don't design based on trends and I like the idea of designing a whole collection based on one overarching idea. I don't want to just create a story. I want to create a new language altogether. My inspiration comes from everywhere.
PaperDoll Collection
Some designers are all about emphasizing women's curves and your debut collection is very different in that aspect.
If I have to very specific, I actually designed Paperdoll before EAM. As mentioned on my website, I was fascinated with the transition of the flat pattern onto the contours of the 3-dimensional body. I wanted to make something that looked essentially simple but stands apart from the rest.
So much of that collection plays a lot with colours. You can't see it clearly on the pictures but if you do get to see the piece in person, you'll notice that almost all the dresses are lined with a contrasting colour. There are a lot of subtleties to the designs in Paperdoll which people don't notice immediately. I quite like that. As much as I want my pieces to stand out, I'd hate it if the elaborations are too in-your-face.
How are people responding to your PaperDoll collection so far?
It appeals much more to the younger crowd. Everyone who likes them seem to be able to point out the beauty of it and gets the idea without me having to explain it. I'm really pleased with that. That means more to me than anything else. People understanding my point of view and appreciating it.
East Asian Misfits Collection
The design of your website, the name of your brand, and your past designs carry distinct Chinese influences.
I'm Singaporean Chinese. I wanted an eponymous label that wasn't too direct. So I thought of breaking up the 'lin' character of my name. I like most traditional outfits across all cultures. I chose to work on the East Asian classics because it's something that I'm more familiar with. I think these classics propose sensuality in the most innovative ways (e.g. The high collar accentuating the neck in a cheongsam, the fall of the neckline of the Kimono on the back). I think people should realise that sexiness doesn't only come from raising the hemline, lowering the neckline or accentuating curves.
East Asian Misfits Collection
Future plans?
Currently, I'm a one-woman team with a full-time job. I'm phenomenally passionate about clothes but I really don't have the luxury of time. I'm working towards a show for my third collection during the weekends. I do graphic design and illustrations as well and hope to print my own fabrics in the near future so I could make a collection that will truly express my vision. I hope to do a lot more experimental and cross-disciplinary work eventually.
You can drop by the showroom at:
2B, Perumal Road
Singapore 218773
(Next to Farrer Park MRT, Exit G)
Open: 11am - 3pm, Saturdays
www.yumumu.com
Prices range from S$120 - $300. Cash payment only.
For special appointments, email yilin@yumumu.com.
